La Tienda in the Press
Newsweek - March 13, 2006
Food: Spain—The Next ItalyJerry Adler
In Catalonia, on the northeast coast of Spain, it is said that a fish swims three times: in water when it's alive, in oil as it's cooked and then in the wine that washes it down. For the fish, we are suggesting chef Andy Nusser's dorada with blood sausage at Casa Mono (mariobatali.com), Mario Batali's electrifyingly original Spanish restaurant in Manhattan; and for the wine, a 1996 Montecillo Gran Riserva Rioja (about $28, retail). You will notice that the wine is red, a deep ruby red, which the Spanish are perfectly happy to drink with fish because, frankly, their white wines aren't all that hot. But the red Riojas, rich and fruity with a backbone of steel (years to look for: 1995, 1996, 1999 and 2001), are among the most underappreciated wine values on the planet.